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Hancock County, the western end of the Mississippi Coast

Bay St. Louis, Mississippi: a crab town that calls itself A Place Apart

Old Town Bay St. Louis looks like a New Orleans summer colony that never went home, and every Fourth of July its church grounds cook thousands of pounds of crab. This is how the Bay eats, and how to bring a little of it to your own stove.

Five JollyGringo'z bottles on a cooler at a boat dock

A Place Apart, with crab on the table

Bay St. Louis sits in Hancock County on the bay that shares its name, with Waveland just to the west and Pass Christian across the water to the east. The town goes by A Place Apart. Its Old Town district, full of shotgun houses, Queen Anne cottages and bungalows listed on the National Register, still carries the look of the summer homes New Orleans families built here, and many still do.

The municipal harbor is one of the few on the coast where you can tie up a boat and walk straight into downtown. On the second Saturday of every month, Old Town shops and restaurants stay open late with live music. Back of town, the old L and N train depot holds a welcome center, the Alice Moseley Folk Art Museum and a Mardi Gras museum, with restaurants lined up around the park beside it.

The cooking leans on the bay. Blue crabs work the shallow water around town, and Mississippi sets no daily limit on hard crabs for recreational crabbers, only a minimum of 5 inches measured from spine tip to spine tip across the back. Soft crabs have no size limit at all. That is why a crab boil here is a Tuesday kind of thing, not a holiday.

How a church fair became Crab Fest

By 1985 the Our Lady of the Gulf church fair had grown past what the parish could manage. Brothers Bill and Joe Monti reshaped it as Crab Fest and set it on the Fourth of July. It spent a few years on borrowed ground before returning to the church property, where a homemade pavilion of poles and tarps kept the first crowds out of a summer downpour.

That first Crab Fest is estimated to have drawn nearly 20,000 people and gone through 3,000 pounds of shrimp and 6,000 pounds of crab. For 2026 the volunteers planned on 5,000 pounds of shrimp, 12,000 pounds of crab and 60,000 to 70,000 visitors over three days. Parish families still staff every booth, turning out barbecue shrimp, stuffed crab potatoes, fried seafood and a mayoral gumbo with a local following.

What is in season

The Bay St. Louis year, by the water

Shrimp, crab and oyster rules come from the Mississippi Department of Marine Resources. Festival timing comes from the organizers and Coast press.

What is in season in Bay St. Louis, by month. This month is November.

  1. Second Saturday in Old Town, with music and late shop hoursEvery monthIn season now
  2. Shrimp season opened in Mississippi state waters at 6 a.m.May 26, 2026 Official dates for Shrimp season opened in Mississippi state waters at 6 a.m. (opens in a new tab)In season now
  3. Our Lady of the Gulf Crab Fest, closing with fireworks on the FourthEarly JulyIn season now
  4. Prime backyard crabbing, with hard crabs kept at 5 inches and upSummerIn season now
  5. Oyster season opened, and the Waveland and St. Stanislaus reefs were listed for tonging onlyOctober 1, 2026 Official dates for Oyster season opened, and the Waveland and St. Stanislaus reefs were listed for tonging only (opens in a new tab)In season now
  6. Shrimping north of the Intracoastal Waterway closes for the seasonJanuary 1, 2027 Official dates for Shrimping north of the Intracoastal Waterway closes for the season (opens in a new tab)In season now

Festivals and events

Bay St. Louis on the calendar

Crab Fest is the date to plan around. The monthly art walk fills in the rest of the year. Dates update every month: confirmed means the organizers posted it, expected means it follows the usual pattern.

Our Lady of the Gulf Crab Fest

Three days over the Fourth of July, Thursday through Saturday, on the church grounds in Old Town

Next Usually July 2027

Free to get in, with food bought by token, carnival rides, local bands and a fireworks finish. Bring lawn chairs and leave the ice chest at home.

The next twelve months in Bay St. Louis

Every week or month: Second Saturday in Old Town (The second Saturday of every month, in the evening)

  1. Nov2026Nothing on the calendar
  2. DecNothing on the calendar
  3. Jan2027Nothing on the calendar
  4. FebNothing on the calendar
  5. MarNothing on the calendar
  6. AprNothing on the calendar
  7. MayNothing on the calendar
  8. JunNothing on the calendar
  9. JulTBA July: Our Lady of the Gulf Crab Fest, date to come
  10. AugNothing on the calendar
  11. SepNothing on the calendar
  12. OctNothing on the calendar

Eat and shop local

Where to eat and what to bring home from Bay St. Louis

The places we would send a friend: kitchens locals swear by and shops worth the stop. Every one was open when we checked in October 2026. Hours run seasonal on the coast, so call ahead.

Old Town galleries and shops open late for the Second Saturday Art Walk each month. Waveland has no well documented standouts, so the list sticks to Old Town Bay St. Louis, a few minutes east.

Where to eat 10 picks, 4 on the water

  1. Thorny Oyster

    Seafood bistro and raw bar

    Chef Billy Brownlee's dining room in the Pearl Hotel, with local raw oysters, a big seafood plateau, grilled oysters and bouillabaisse. Book on Resy, and come back for Sunday brunch.

    104 North Beach Boulevard, in the Pearl Hotelthornyoysterbsl.com for Thorny Oyster (opens in a new tab)

  2. 200 North Beach

    Seafood and steaksWater view

    A bay view dining room in a restored early 1900s building. Order the blackened redfish over crawfish cornbread, trout pecan meuniere or a dozen chargrilled oysters.

    200 North Beach Boulevard, Old Town200northbeach.com for 200 North Beach (opens in a new tab)

  3. Cuz's Old Town Oyster Bar & Grill

    Oyster bar and seafoodBeachfront

    Family owned since 2004 and the casual pick on the beachfront, with boiled and fried Gulf seafood, raw oysters and outdoor tables under the oaks.

    108 South Beach Boulevard, Old Towncuzsbsl.com for Cuz's Old Town Oyster Bar & Grill (opens in a new tab)

  4. Trapani's Eatery

    Gulf seafood with Italian rootsBeachfront

    A two story beachfront spot the Trapani family has run since 1994. Get the Diabolo shrimp, chargrilled oysters or a muffuletta, then head up to the balcony bar.

    116 North Beach Boulevard, Old Towntrapaniseatery.net for Trapani's Eatery (opens in a new tab)

  5. Field's Steak & Oyster Bar

    Steak and oyster house

    A downtown dinner spot for dry aged steaks and fresh oysters, with monthly changing features and Sunday brunch.

    111 Main Street, Old Townfieldssteaks.com for Field's Steak & Oyster Bar (opens in a new tab)

  6. Mockingbird Cafe

    Breakfast and lunch cafe

    Known as the living room of the Bay, an art filled cafe in an 1868 building for coffee, biscuits, breakfast pulled pork and grits, and burgers. Open every day from 7 to 2.

    110 South Second Street, Old Townmockingbirdcafe.com for Mockingbird Cafe (opens in a new tab)

  7. Cosmos Cafe

    Breakfast and brunch

    A beachy breakfast spot in the Pearl Hotel. Try the Bananas Foster pancakes, the blue crab omelette or a plate of beignets.

    104 North Beach Boulevard, in the Pearl Hotelcosmoscafebsl.com for Cosmos Cafe (opens in a new tab)

  8. The Sycamore House

    Southern and French dinner

    Dinner Wednesday through Saturday in two 19th century cottages on Main Street, with shrimp and grits a longtime favorite.

    210 Main Street, Old Townthesycamorehouse.com for The Sycamore House (opens in a new tab)

  9. The Blind Tiger

    Waterfront bar and grillBeachfront

    A laid back beachfront deck for royal red shrimp, a fried redfish sandwich or smoked wings with a cold drink.

    119 North Beach Boulevard, Old Towntbt-bsl.com for The Blind Tiger (opens in a new tab)

  10. Anthony's Ristorante

    Scratch Italian

    The Trapani family's newer Old Town restaurant, opened in 2025, serving from scratch Italian dinners Wednesday through Sunday.

    107 Court Street, Old Townanthonysristorantebsl.com for Anthony's Ristorante (opens in a new tab)

Souvenirs and local shops 5 picks

  1. Smith & Lens

    Local art gallery

    A gallery run by a silversmith and a photographer since 2014, showing paintings, photography and handmade jewelry by local and regional artists, with a new show most months.

    106 South Second Street, Old Towngiftly.com for Smith & Lens (opens in a new tab)

  2. The Shops of Century Hall

    Local makers under one roof

    A historic two story building filled with small shops and artist booths, including S. Kohler Design's cigar box clocks and engraved pieces and Bay Life Gifts' original artwork.

    112 South Second Street, Old Townbslshoofly.com for The Shops of Century Hall (opens in a new tab)

  3. Gallery 220

    Artist co-op gallery

    A cooperative gallery showing work from more than twenty local artists, a good place to buy a Gulf Coast painting or print.

    220 Main Street, Old Townbslshoofly.com for Gallery 220 (opens in a new tab)

  4. Social Chair

    Local art and gift shop

    A Main Street shop for local art, funky gifts, home decor and cards, voted a local favorite.

    201 Main Street, Old Townbslshoofly.com for Social Chair (opens in a new tab)

  5. The French Potager

    Antiques, gifts and florist

    Antiques, garden pieces, plants and gifts in one shop, with a full service florist inside.

    213 Main Street, Old Townbslshoofly.com for The French Potager (opens in a new tab)

From the lineup

Three bottles for a crab table

Boiled crabs, crab cakes and whatever shrimp ends up in the pot. These cover the whole spread.

Port A Shrimp Shack

Some Heat, 3.5 oz, $9

Our boil seasoning, citrus and celery up front, and it works dry. Shake it over crabs and shrimp the minute they come out of the pot.

Grand Isle Hook Set Sauce

Some Heat, 8 fl oz, $12

Louisiana style hot sauce with red jalapeño and a lime finish. A few drops on sweet crabmeat is all it takes.

RiverKingz All Purpose Rub

Mild, 4 oz, $9

Garlic led and barely hot, so it seasons a crab cake without hiding the crab.

Cook it at home

Bay St. Louis blue crab cakes

A crab cake should taste like crab. Keep the filler light, handle the meat gently and let the skillet do the rest.

What you need

  • 1 lb lump blue crabmeat, picked over for shell
  • 1 egg and 3 tbsp mayonnaise
  • 1/2 cup crushed saltine crackers
  • 2 green onions, sliced thin
  • 2 tsp RiverKingz All Purpose Rub
  • Butter and a little oil for the skillet
  • Grand Isle Hook Set Sauce and lemon for the table

How it goes

  1. Whisk the egg, mayonnaise, green onions and RiverKingz together in a bowl.
  2. Fold in the crabmeat and crackers with a spatula, slowly, so the lumps stay whole.
  3. Shape 8 cakes about an inch thick and chill them 30 minutes so they hold together.
  4. Heat a thin layer of butter and oil in a skillet over medium heat. Fry the cakes 3 to 4 minutes a side, until browned outside and 160F in the center because of the egg.
  5. Rest them on a rack for a minute and serve with Hook Set Sauce and lemon wedges.
Worth knowing. If you boiled the crabs yourself, pick them while they are still warm. The meat slides off the shell far easier than it does cold from the fridge.

Another one from our kitchen: Port A Shrimp Boil

Questions

Questions about Bay St. Louis

When is Crab Fest in Bay St. Louis?

Over the Fourth of July, Thursday through Saturday, on the Our Lady of the Gulf church grounds. The 42nd Crab Fest ran July 2 to 4, 2026. Organizers had not set 2027 dates by mid October 2026.

Is there a limit on blue crabs in Mississippi?

For recreational crabbers there is no daily limit on hard blue crabs, but each one must measure at least 5 inches from spine tip to spine tip. Soft shell crabs have no size or number limit, according to the Mississippi Department of Marine Resources.

What is Old Town Bay St. Louis?

The historic downtown along the bay, with homes and buildings on the National Register, local shops and restaurants, and a monthly Second Saturday street party.

Where is Bay St. Louis on the Mississippi Coast?

At the western end, in Hancock County. Waveland is next door to the west, and Pass Christian sits across the bay to the east in Harrison County.

Do you ship to Bay St. Louis?

Yes. We ship anywhere in the U.S. Orders go out within two business days, and shipping is free over $45.

Run a shop, market or kitchen in Bay St. Louis? Carry JollyGringo'z by the case. Tell us about the shop and the price sheet, the case packs and a sample bottle come straight back.

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