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Pinellas County, Tampa Bay

St. Petersburg, Florida: smoked mullet, fish spread and a Saturday market

Around St. Pete, fish gets smoked over red oak, mashed into spread and eaten on saltines with something cold. Here is where that habit came from, when the big Saturday market runs, and how to smoke your own mullet on a backyard kettle.

Five JollyGringo'z bottles on a cooler at a boat dock

A smoker by the side of the road

The local taste for smoked fish has a founder. According to the St Pete Catalyst, Ted Peters, a master plumber from Olean, New York, found an old discarded fish smoker in 1946, a rough wooden box with sliding trays and room for a small fire, and dragged it home. He soon opened a shack on Blind Pass Road called the Blue Anchor Inn, with smoked mullet as its specialty, fueled at first by buttonwood mangrove branches.

Mullet was the obvious fish. It was everywhere in local water and, as the Catalyst notes, it does not usually take a hook, so it was caught by net. Plenty of families smoked fish in the backyard. Setting the smoker up beside the road, where the smell could pull cars off the street, was the new idea.

In 1951 Peters and his half brother Elry Lathrop moved to Pasadena Avenue in South Pasadena, the small city between St. Petersburg and the beaches. Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish still runs in the open air wooden building they built. Mangrove was outlawed as fuel decades ago, so the fish now goes over red oak, and the mullet and Spanish mackerel are bought from Gulf Coast fishermen. The fish spread is still made to a secret family recipe.

The Saturday Morning Market

Downtown, the other weekly ritual is the Saturday Morning Market. It has run since 2002 and, per I Love the Burg, ranks among the largest markets of its kind in the Southeast, drawing more than 10,000 people a week at its peak with nearly 100 rotating vendors. Expect local farmers, fresh seafood, baked goods and ready to eat food from more than 15 countries.

From October through May it sets up at Al Lang Stadium every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. It takes September off and runs a smaller summer market from June through August. The current season opened on October 3, 2026. The market is an independent nonprofit and gives free booths to community groups.

What is in season

St. Petersburg by the month

Fish rules are from the FWC, whose Tampa Bay snook zone covers the city. Market hours are from I Love the Burg.

What is in season in St. Petersburg, by month. This month is November.

  1. Saturday Morning Market at Al Lang Stadium, 9 a.m. until 2 p.m.Saturdays, October to MayIn season now
  2. Smaller summer market, mornings until 1 p.m.Saturdays, June to AugustIn season now
  3. Spring snook window, one keeper in the slotMarch and April Official dates for Spring snook window, one keeper in the slot (opens in a new tab)In season now
  4. Snook reopen once the summer closure lifts on September 1September to November Official dates for Snook reopen once the summer closure lifts on September 1 (opens in a new tab)In season now
  5. Sheepshead, eight a day at 12 inches or betterYear roundIn season now
  6. Stone crab claw harvest openOctober 15 through May 1 Official dates for Stone crab claw harvest open (opens in a new tab)In season now

Festivals and events

St. Petersburg food dates

The market keeps a fixed weekly rhythm; its own site posts weather calls and summer locations. Dates update every month: confirmed means the organizers posted it, expected means it follows the usual pattern.

Saturday Morning Market

Every Saturday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., October to May, Al Lang Stadium

Next Expected Saturday, November 7, 2026

Running since 2002, with local farmers, seafood, baked goods, international food and live music downtown on the waterfront.

The next twelve months in St. Petersburg

Every week or month: Saturday Morning Market (Every Saturday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., October to May, Al Lang Stadium)

  1. Nov2026Nothing on the calendar
  2. DecNothing on the calendar
  3. Jan2027Nothing on the calendar
  4. FebNothing on the calendar
  5. MarNothing on the calendar
  6. Apr9 April: Tampa Bay Blues Festival, confirmed
  7. MayNothing on the calendar
  8. JunNothing on the calendar
  9. JulNothing on the calendar
  10. AugNothing on the calendar
  11. SepNothing on the calendar
  12. OctNothing on the calendar

Eat and shop local

Where to eat and what to bring home from St. Petersburg

The places we would send a friend: kitchens locals swear by and shops worth the stop. Every one was open when we checked in October 2026. Hours run seasonal on the coast, so call ahead.

Ted Peters is cash only and closed Monday and Tuesday. Skyway Jack's serves breakfast and lunch only, 6 am to 2:30 pm.

Where to eat 10 picks, 1 on the water

  1. Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish

    Smoked fish since 1951

    A family run fish smokehouse that has been smoking fish over red oak since 1951. Order the smoked mullet or mackerel with German potato salad, then key lime pie, and bring cash.

    1350 Pasadena Ave S, near South Pasadenatedpetersfish.com for Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish (opens in a new tab)

  2. Bodega

    Cuban and Latin street food

    A walk up window on Central Avenue with an award winning Cuban sandwich and frequent lines. Get the Cuban or the lechon platter with jicama slaw and a fresh pressed juice.

    1180 Central Ave, EDGE Districteatatbodega.com for Bodega (opens in a new tab)

  3. Harvey's 4th Street Grill

    Bar and grill, grouper

    One of St. Pete's oldest restaurants, open since 1984, filleting whole Gulf red grouper in house. Order the grouper sandwich, or a cup of the grouper chowder.

    3121 4th St N, Old Northeastharveys4thstreet.com for Harvey's 4th Street Grill (opens in a new tab)

  4. Skyway Jack's

    Old school breakfast diner

    A pig themed breakfast and lunch diner serving the south side since 1976. Get Jack's SOS, sausage gravy over biscuits, or the Whistle Stop Benedict on fried green tomatoes.

    2795 34th St S, Skyway Marina Districtskywayjacksstpete.com for Skyway Jack's (opens in a new tab)

  5. Il Ritorno

    Contemporary Italian

    A downtown Italian restaurant listed in the Michelin Guide, with its own butcher shop next door. Go for the creative pastas, such as duck tortellini, or the tasting menu at the chef's counter.

    449 Central Ave N, downtownilritornodowntown.com for Il Ritorno (opens in a new tab)

  6. Mazzaro's Italian Market

    Italian market and deli

    A big Italian market with a deli counter that a Michelin listed local chef calls the best sandwich shop in town. Come early for a sandwich at lunch, then browse the bakery and seafood counter.

    2909 22nd Ave Nmazzarosmarket.com for Mazzaro's Italian Market (opens in a new tab)

  7. Fortu

    Pan Asian dining

    A Michelin recommended Pan Asian restaurant in the Ponce de Leon Hotel. Order the spicy pork wontons with chili crisp and the glazed carrots in kimchi butter.

    97 Central Ave, downtownforturestaurants.com for Fortu (opens in a new tab)

  8. Teak

    Pier top seafood and viewsWater view

    A nautical restaurant on the fourth level at the end of the St. Pete Pier, with a rooftop bar above. Come for the conch beignets and the views over Tampa Bay.

    800 2nd Ave NE, St. Pete Pierteakstpete.com for Teak (opens in a new tab)

  9. The Hangar

    Airport breakfast and lunch

    A casual restaurant inside Albert Whitted Airport where you can watch small planes come and go. Good for breakfast, with jumbo waffles and pancakes, or fish tacos later in the day.

    540 1st St S, Albert Whitted Airportthehangarstpete.com for The Hangar (opens in a new tab)

  10. Social Roost

    Breakfast and brunch

    A downtown breakfast spot recommended by a local Michelin listed chef. Order the pancakes, French toast or a Benedict with a side of bacon.

    St. Petersburgsocialroost.com for Social Roost (opens in a new tab)

Souvenirs and local shops 4 picks

  1. Kahwa Coffee

    Local coffee roaster

    A St. Petersburg roaster founded in 2006 that roasts every batch in town. Pick up a bag of beans from one of its St. Pete cafes.

    Cafes around St. Petekahwacoffee.com for Kahwa Coffee (opens in a new tab)

  2. Florida CraftArt

    Nonprofit fine craft gallery

    A gallery shop selling handmade work from more than 200 Florida craft artists, with new pieces every week. Good for glass, ceramics and jewelry made in the state.

    501 Central Ave, downtownfloridacraftart.org for Florida CraftArt (opens in a new tab)

  3. Morean Arts Center

    Arts center and glass studio

    The arts center behind the Chihuly Collection and the Morean Glass Studio, where you can watch glassblowing. Browse its shop for art to take home.

    Downtown St. Petemoreanartscenter.org for Morean Arts Center (opens in a new tab)

  4. Gator Jim's Tackle

    Pier tackle shop

    A tackle shop on the first level of the St. Pete Pier. Handy for bait and gear if you want to fish off the pier.

    St. Pete Pier, level 1stpetepier.org for Gator Jim's Tackle (opens in a new tab)

From the lineup

What we would set out with smoked fish

Smoked fish is rich and salty enough already. It wants brightness and a little heat.

Grand Isle Hook Set Sauce

Some Heat, 8 fl oz, $12

Red jalapeño, roasted red pepper and a squeeze of lime in a Louisiana style bottle. Dash it on each bite of smoked fish.

Gulf Coast Blackening

Some Heat, 3 oz, $9

Smoke and herbs with a pepper build that creeps up. Dust mullet or mackerel with it before they meet the smoke.

RiverKingz All Purpose Rub

Mild, 4 oz, $9

Garlic forward, savory, barely hot and low in salt, so it seasons a spread without making salty fish saltier.

Cook it at home

Kettle smoked mullet, roadside stand style

Ted Peters built a business on mullet split open and smoked over wood. A kettle grill set up for indirect heat and a few oak chunks gets you close at home. Eat it warm, picked off the skin, with saltines and hot sauce.

What you need

  • 4 whole mullet, split and cleaned with skin and scales on, or 2 lb skin on fillets
  • Gulf Coast Blackening
  • 1/4 cup kosher salt and 1/4 cup brown sugar in 2 quarts water
  • Oak wood chunks
  • Saltines and lemon wedges
  • Hook Set Sauce for shaking

How it goes

  1. Stir the salt and sugar into the water until dissolved. Brine the fish in the fridge for 1 hour, then rinse and pat dry.
  2. Sprinkle Gulf Coast Blackening over the cut side and leave the fish uncovered in the fridge for another hour, so the surface turns tacky and takes smoke.
  3. Bank lit coals on one side of a kettle and set two oak chunks on top. Aim for 200 to 225F at the lid vent.
  4. Set the fish on the grate away from the coals, skin down. Cover and smoke until golden and flaky and at least 145F inside, usually a little under two hours.
  5. Serve warm with saltines, lemon and Hook Set Sauce. Flake any leftovers into a spread the next day.
Worth knowing. Mullet is an oily fish, which is why it smokes so well, but it also means it does not keep. Smoke it the day you buy it and eat it within two days.

Another one from our kitchen: Grilled Gulf Oysters

Questions

Questions about St. Petersburg

What is smoked mullet?

Mullet fillets smoked slowly over hardwood until golden and firm. It is a classic around St. Petersburg, where Ted Peters started selling it from a roadside smoker in the 1940s. Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish in South Pasadena now smokes over red oak.

When is the Saturday Morning Market?

Every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., October through May, at Al Lang Stadium downtown. A smaller summer market runs June through August, and the market takes September off.

How is mullet caught?

Mullet do not generally bite a hook, so they have long been caught by net. Since gill nets were banned in the 1990s most are taken with cast nets, and the family behind Ted Peters told the St Pete Catalyst the local fish have come back strong.

When is snook season in St. Petersburg?

The city sits in the FWC's Tampa Bay snook zone. The fish are off limits December 1 through the end of February and again May 1 through August 31, which leaves March, April and September through November open, one fish a day between 28 and 33 inches.

Do you ship to St. Petersburg?

Yes. We ship anywhere in the U.S. Orders go out within two business days, and shipping is free over $45.

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